"Morgan Star, whom I worked with, said 'Any cook who's a good cook can write and execute recipes—but that's not a chef,'" said Ruiz. "He told me, 'You're going to do mother sauces and knife cuts. I'm going to put you on my line and if you don't know it in your head on the spot you're wasting my time.' He taught me the fundamentals and set me up for success."
At the time, success meant working at the Hualalai for Alan Wong and then Etsuji Umezu, learning Hawaiian regional cuisine and developing the soul—and skills—of a sushi chef. It also gave him an appreciation for local ingredients.
After 10 years Ruiz returned to San Diego, working first at Sushi on the Rock, then Harney Sushi. Then came the opportunity to open his own place.
"It was all about my chefs and me building ourselves a home to live and work in, each being able to do our own food, doing it the right way with no short cuts," he emphasized.
His world has expanded. Like many San Diego chefs, Ruiz has been exposing himself to the bounty and talent of Baja. "It's changed my cuisine. I love open-air cooking in Valle de Guadalupe. Now I want to put people in my new garden."
That would be a Fallbrook property owned by longtime friend Ed Cannon, who is growing heirloom Japanese vegetables for Ruiz, as well as a variety of fruits, lettuces, other produce—and eggs.
"My goal is baseball-batting people over the head to know where their food comes from," he said. "That includes educating people about seafood. When you do it responsibly, that's the reward."
The Land & Water Company
(760) 729-5263
2978 Carlsbad Blvd #110, Carlsbad, CA 92008
